location - Bhimbetka Caves ...when does a mumbaikaar get time to stand and stare ..(rhetoric)

After much making of cute poodle faces during the tedious process of convincing did we have a sudden plan of visiting the Bhimbetka Caves with the sun at peak in May [2011]; However a more sudden one was the change of site -
 location--- Sanchi, a small village located on the outskirts of Bhopal, is home to one of the most beautiful ‘Stupas’ or hemispherical domes.

Almost an hour’s drive early evening and we reached this landmark which deals with the nurture and the subsequent flowering of the Deen of Buddhism. But with the presence of monkeys (again…don’t we find them at most of the historical sights regardless of the site’s status today, that of being renowned or lying in ruins unattended), bats hanging upside down the pine trees, squirrels, peacocks, ducks and rabbits …Its hard for the wandering partial eye to stay focussed on either -nature or man-made beauty.

But it’s easy to convince them with the existence of global channels like Natural Geographic and Animal Planet... Even before entering the site, one can spot the almost perfect hemispherical dome topped by a triple parasol within the square Harmika (railing). A terrace below enclosed by a fence and an encircling balustrade at the ground level –accessed from the four cardinal directions through the intricately carved gateways (Torans). Each Toran has two 34 feet high upright pillars crowned by elephants, dwarfs and our present day official seal of India (Ashoka Lions).

Anddd how these exquisitely carved Torans help hold the eye in awe! It wouldn’t have if gradual beautifications did not take place, for these buddhist stupas were simple mounds without decoration during the Mauryan period.

Its not much of a challenge to read through the ornamented Torans instead of a much easy modern day script, the birth of Gautama Buddha, the first sermon, his journey towards enlightenment, his incarnations, Jataka miracles (to name a few specific …the mango miracle, miracle of sankasya).

The Balustrades of the ground level fence of the stupas are carved with a variety of floral motifs; a few others reflect the prevailing myths and Greek influence. The fence with a series of uprights with lenticular crossbars suggested to me the inspiration from wooden fences. If it is… then it’s quite an innovation!

The Achaemenid and Athenian inspiration in architecture, motif designs, styles …well, I don’t know if inspiration is the right word. For even though the motifs and architecture are so strikingly similar, there are some differences and innovations. Maybe the shared pool of symbols can be associated with different meanings and significance, for it was imbibed by a different culture.

The sculptural motifs associated with the Ashokan pillars, and the ones carved on the Balustrades have a rich varied symbolism with resonances in many different traditions. They must have been considered to be in harmony with the Dhamma message of Ashoka... for maybe Ashoka himself did chose the motifs with great care.

The Lotus symbolizes purity in Indian tradition. The Lion –solar symbol in many ancient traditions. Another reason for the selection of the Lion as motif could be that the Buddha is referred to as Sakya Sinha(lion amongst the Sakyas) in Buddhist tradition. Even the Elephant motif has a tradition that reads that Buddha entered the womb of his mother in the form of a white elephant. The elephant also has great significance in the Jain and Brahmanical tradition. It one of the 14 dreams that Mahavira’s mother Trishala had when he was conceived, while in the latter it’s the vehicle of Indra. The Bull is the symbol of fertility and the Horse symbolises the departure of Prince Siddharth(Buddha) from his home. The Lion found on the back of the western gateway appears with stag horns. There are some winged lions, some with two pronged horns. This again can be taken as influenced by Assyrian art.

I came across many motifs which represented 2 or maybe more than 2 symbols taken together. Recollecting some… The Elephant faced bull with Antlers, the body of a running Horse ..A Horse’s head and the body of that a human carrying another. One can see the latter’s definite identification with the Centaurs in greek mythology. The guard at Sanchi said that this combined 2 species in one skin is a ‘Danav’ (monster)... hmmm… another view.

They say the inscriptions carved at different places in the main Stupa has a lot of similarities with the Brahmi Script. One relives the past, reading the stories through the carved and engraved art- much of which was broken of course and much restored (with cement ..looked like!). The credit of breaking the marvels is given to (obviously) the early muslim invasions. A few Hadith that I came across with regard to the cause of this violent destruction suggests that Angels of Mercy of Lord does not enter the place where imitations of creating living things .i.e. Lord’s handiwork are present.

Ibn `Abbas (May Allah be pleased with them) said: I heard the Messenger of Allah (sallahuAlaihiWaSallam(saws)- Peace Be Upon Him) saying, "Whosoever makes a picture, will be punished on the Day of Resurrection, and will be asked to infuse soul therein, which he will not be able to do.''
 [Al-Bukhari and Muslim]

Ibn `Umar (May Allah be pleased with them) said: Jibril (Gabriel) promised to visit the Messenger of Allah (saws) but delayed and this grieved him very much. When he came out of his house, Jibril met him. The Messenger of Allah (PBUH) asked him about the reason of delay, and he replied: "We do not enter a house in which there is a dog or a portrait.''
 [Al-Bukhari].

[hmmm..]…the key to a good cocktail drink [contemporary Cosmopolitan India] is to gently combine the ingredients and stir THOROUGHLY.


https://picasaweb.google.com/101290881756729864908/Sanchi?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIHSx__A5LLX1QE&feat=directlink -shutter captures