The Herstory Excursion

           Reaching the ticket counter at sharp 07.30am as decided made me realize its high time that I should practice the mantra of paper IX - the mantra of being updated. With patient expectations the early birds hoped to see a good number of history sophomores to turn up by 08.30am. The (approximate) one hour wait was spent strolling around the magnificent archway [the Gate Way of India] jinxed by the unobtrusive weeds with the inscription, “Erected to commemorate the landing in India of their Imperial Majesties King George …” (Bla…). The sound of pigeons flapping their wings in the air with the ‘hullabaloo’ of motor created an aura of ‘just another day’ for all. But for us it was a special one, since many of us were visiting Gharapuri [the Elephanta Caves] for the first time. The attendance reflected our enthuse for the ‘educational excursion’ cum ‘bonding’ – where we would spend the day with busy pigeons in the city wilderness and the repellent monkeys of Gharapuri; away from the serene Central Lawn, the colorful Canteen and the informative Information Centre (for a change).

                                            

           The wait was over by 09.00am when we purchased the return tickets to a boat ride to the Elephanta Caves. It was a cruise mode (ok…you can assume the irony), and as per our expectations the ferry had a few typically arranged seats. Any special service charged Rs.10 additional. To feel the open sky free of monotonous constructions on the upper deck of the ferry came under ‘special services’; so we decided to enjoy it in our way back.

           The hazy sun, ‘fresh breeze’, the sight of huge iron and structures drilling and digging into the seabed and the colorful launches in the harbour provided a perfect start to the trip; and perking the shutterbug in us. We looked at the C.E.Pacific, a million tonner billion dollar ship docked at mid seaport, with boggled eyes; and successfully captured the sight in our not so significant digital lens. While capturing the ‘Indo–Titanic’ pose, we wondered whether how many decades would it take to transform our harbor into an ultramarine. By now, we surrounded by nature – land covered with green; the concrete jungle in the midst of a huge waterbed looked like Lanka…Wait a minute – Where did so much green come into this corporate wilderness?!! Fortunately, this land is separated from the greater development pressures of Mumbai. 

            















           The ferry ride was over. We were left on a straight strip of land, approx, 1km, which went out into the sea. Our ‘Coalition Herstory Professors’ took the wise decision of boarding the “Elephanta Express” of 15km/hr in order to save our energy for the 120 old British built steep stairway leading up to the caves.  Indeed, walking would have been faster, but we took the ride as a novelty; and enjoyed the demo of many royalties surpass the commoners like the like of us.
 

           The 10 foot wide stairway was an attraction in itself. It had beautifully rounded side walks about 1 m high made up of black stone blocks. The entire length from step # 1 to # 120 was lined with Colaba Causeway goodies on both sides. Surprisingly, the prices were relatively lower than at Colaba; although bargaining is a must. However, we were under constant check – poked, pulled and pushed up so that the shopping spree doesn’t overpower the invisible blinkers we were supposedly wearing.

           Finally we, the herstory sophomores, reached the UNESCO world heritage site, the Elephant Caves. We entered the site en masse with other tourists. But unlike the latter, we were not there just to praise the beauty of the rock cut caves standing in testimony to the craftsmanship of that century; but also to ‘critically evaluate’ the efforts of the 21st Century care takers to preserve the heritage(with our tour guide – Ma’am Poncha).

           The ancient water tank (could have been one of the first rain water harvesting projects) communicated to us that the 6th Century inhabitants of this area treated water as a necessity with care instead of a heedless luxury.

           The first thing that knocked our conscience was the sheer extent of defacement practiced by our country inmates following the footsteps of the Portuguese – but in two subtle ways; through negligence and the desire to immortalize their love on the priceless work of art. The use of ordinary ubiquitous material, like POP, instead of the original material reflects the slipshod restoration work. Nonetheless, the ethos of that period shines through.

           Modern day vandalism poses threats of mortality to the Elephanta Caves – from poor management, absence of better tourist facilities, the obsessed engraving their names to eternity, to development pressures due to its location within Mumbai harbour. Despite this mutilation, the magnificence of what remains is overwhelming. Imagine – a group of ancient artisans excavate, carve a hill, and even thought of carving columns to support the great load of the mountain above. So, not only were these ancient inhabitants sensitive about water issues, but also possessed architectural intelligence.

           Though the remaining caves are a bit of a disappointment, as they are either defaced or left incomplete; the main chamber in contrast is sublimely breath taking. The pale and silent figures of sheer excellence really pinch you by the labor and pain that it would take to construct such an art marvel. The corners of the chamber is heavily carved depicting mythological legends, the square shaped sanctuary with four colossal dwarapalas(door keepers) and the 5 feet tall linga in the centre.

           The Trimurthi – official emblem of the Maharashtra Tourism Development Cooperation – was the most stunning piece of architecture I came across. It possesses a mesmerizing aura which is fascinating to the archaeologists, real tourists, and the faux tourists (like the like of us). Neither my words, nor my digital lens could capture the timeless ethereal beauty of this sculpture.

           To the secular eye, the Ardhanareshwara [male – female God], communicates the hypothesis that maybe the society of the 6th Century accepted the third gender unlike the 21st Century. However, I found no difference between the ‘Ancient 6th Century’ and the ‘Modern 21st Century’ artists on how they portrayed women. However, it is not hard to imagine what the caves must have been like in its days of glory.

           A group snap on the steps was captured by a considerate amateur paparazzo in front of the circular based courtyard. This was of course to upload it on our very own facebook for proof that we did visit the caves.

           The pathway alongside the caves gives a good view of the dam in the valley and the hill on the other side. However, looking over the cliff was not a good idea as it seemed to be designated the garbage heap of this site. The busy monkeys enjoying their freedom, cuddling and scratching each others backs became the showstoppers. On our way down, we encountered the “whining guerilla-warfare warrior’s” demo, where I was making vain attempts to capture the warrior’s attitude like that of a Maharaja enthroned when it pounced (not on me.. thanks to Lord!) on a ‘firang kid’ by me. It was a brief 3 second “its mine” game over the Coca-cola bottle – the notorious Maharaja won (obvious!). This tragicomic scene encountered left me unnerved, but also revealed to me the sheer mastery the Gharapuri monkeys had over the guerilla tactics and also their changing needs and ‘wants’ from water to ‘processed drinks.’

          The pleasant 45 minutes ferry ride back to the great archway was spent with glee on the upper deck. I was pulled up to the upper deck too, with a crane, for birds of a feather are supposed to flock together. We played Antakshari keeping the tradition of this game alive, cause bethey–bethey kya kartey.. karna tha kuch kaam. We took turns for posing, as the captain of the ferry, for the camera. It was wonderful to see Mumbai from the sea and the gob smacking sight of the majectic Taj towering over the archway. Before dispersing, Ma’am Kamat and Ma’am Poncha counted their gems yet again, to make sure if no resident monkey of Gharapuri had snatched any.

 

           This excursion brought the past and the present together adding infotainment to the theoretical study of Archaeology. Looking back, I feel shedding an extra tenner to go on the upper deck was worth a deal. Though it was actually a kind of a bribe, as we did not receive any receipt this time. However, I’m sure that the ‘herstory coalition department’ had a memorable day.